For four days in
September 1944, Lt Col John Frost and his battalion of 600
British paratroopers held out against overwhelming odds on the
bridge over the Lower Rhine. John Frost Bridge, named in his
honour, provides the starting point for an explanation of modern
Arnhem's appearance. This is where the battle was most
ferocious, and from here the city's scars are still visible.
A Bridge to Far
The most
prominent Victim was the church of St Eusebius, founded in 1452,
whose tower was destroyed in the fighting. A new one was built,
with no attempt to make it blend into the medieval structure. It
dominates the skyline, standing as a symbol of Arnhem's rise
from the ashes. A glass lift takes you past the great carillon
bells, up to a height of 73 m (240 ft) for a panoramic view of
the city, the Rhine and the surrounding countryside. The
interior of St Eusebius reflects the typical sobriety of the
Dutch Reformed Church, but look out for the marvellous
Renaissance marble sarcophagus of Count Karl von Geldern in the
choir.